10:29am Saturday 30th May 2009
By Nadia Jefferson-Brown
MASON’S Bistro in York has long been synonymous with Mediterranean-style food.
But that changed when new owners Leigh Wade and Dennis Peacock arrived in March and put their mark on the Fossgate landmark.
Few passers-by can fail to have seen the dramatically different exterior. Those who have ventured inside may also have noticed the fresh colour scheme and the new fixtures and fittings. But it is the menu that will have attracted the most attention and comment because it is so radically different from before.
Gone is the Mediterranean-influenced food of bygone days, replaced by a simpler, somewhat limited choice of dishes from chilli con carne to steak, or a sausage platter.
Most of these come with a side serving of house salad and chips without any other choice of potato or vegetables. There were also three salads and three different burger meals to choose from.
Another noticeable difference was the cheaper price tag attached to the menu, ranging from just £6.75 to £12.95.
Bearing in mind our young son Miles’s bedtime, we were the first customers when we arrived shortly after 6pm. When we left, shortly before 8pm, the place was buzzing with all but one of the tables full including families, a young couple, middle-aged diners and a hen party.
Despite the limited choice, we all received hearty portions of what I would describe as good, honest, fairly simple food, with side salads which were considerably more generous – and fresh – than most garnishes. The accompanying dips and sauces were homemade and tasty to boot.
For starters, we dipped into a mini mezze (£7.50) and declared it a hit. Served with pitta bread, it came with homemade dips. The houmous was thick and tasty, Jean proclaimed the taramasalata the best she’d tried, and the sweet chilli dip was deliciously fresh with a fusion of flavours including lime and lemongrass.
We also shared garlic bread (£2.50) – four pieces of ciabatta – which was lovely with a sprinkling of herbs, served with a side garnish of fresh salad. Our first impressions were very good.
For my main meal, I had the Thai fishcakes (£7.95) which came as a pair with a crispy casing around a salmon and haddock filling. They had a warming spicy kick which possibly detracted from the fish flavour but I thoroughly enjoyed it. The accompanying house salad was a dense bed of fresh mixed salad leaves in a sweet balsamic dressing with small pots of sweet chilli dip and deliciously creamy tartar sauce.
I also ordered a portion of chips (£2.75) which was large enough for all of us. We all agreed the large, fluffy and lightly-fried Jenga-like chips would take some beating.
Gary’s Cajun chicken (£9.75) was a success with two large, free-range butterfly breasts grilled in Mason’s own Cajun spice mix. It was another hearty serving, complete with crispy onion rings, mushrooms, salad and chips.
Jean chose the beer-battered fish and chips (£8.95) served with homemade mushy peas, salad, chips and tartar sauce.
The two fish fillets were described as delicious and succulent, encased “in the lightest of batters”. Usually a modest eater, Jean strived to finish her meal “because it’s just so good” before admitting defeat.
Keith was equally pleased with his two lamb skewers (£8.95), served with rice, salad and pitta bread. The skewers were loaded with succulent pieces of lamb – little had been done to the meat, allowing its natural flavour to come through – alongside peppers and onions.
From the three-dish children’s menu we chose the fish fingers (£3.95) for Miles who ignored the baked beans but ate most of the homemade haddock goujons which had a tasty, almost indiscernible batter coating. The dessert menu consisted simply of sticky toffee pudding, chocolate brownie plus a selection ice creams. We shared a large wedge of spongy sticky toffee pudding which was tasty enough but not outstanding, served on a pool of thick, distinctly toffee-flavoured sauce with two small scoops of indistinct vanilla ice cream.
Our bill, with drinks, came to about £70 which we considered very good value.
Nadia visited Mason’s Bistro on Saturday, May 23, 2009.
Mason’s Bistro, 13 Fossgate York, YO1 9TA.
Tel: 01904 611 919.
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