The Chequers Inn, Bilton in Ainsty (From York Press)

The Chequers Inn, Bilton in Ainsty

3:02pm Friday 1st December 2006

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IT STOOD empty and forlorn for two years. It could almost have been a symbol of the decline of country pubs in the 21st century.

After all, with strict drink-driving laws in place, who wants to motor out into the sticks for a single drink? Or so goes the theory.

But rumours of the death of the Chequers Inn at Bilton in Ainsty were greatly exaggerated. For it has reopened after being taken over by Alex and Vicky Main, and Alex's mother, Heather, and given a £300,000 refurbishment.

I went out to the village, situated just off the B1224 York-Wetherby Road near Tockwith, last Saturday night to see what they have made of it.

When I rang a couple of days beforehand to book a table, I was dismayed and delighted to discover the restaurant was already fully booked.

Dismayed because I wanted to take my wife out then to celebrate her birthday, delighted because, well, if that many people had already booked a table, it must be pretty good - mustn't it?

Fortunately, there was still room in the bar, where the same menu was available. I did wonder if smoke might drift across our table from drinkers lining the bar, but needn't have worried.

As we arrived, it quickly became clear that while this might once have been a watering hole for locals, its renaissance was strictly food-led. I couldn't see a single person who was there just for a drink, or with a fag in their hand for that matter.

We were shown fairly swiftly to our seats and then studied the menu, which offered a diverse and appetising choice. It also promised locally sourced "real food" - so far, so good.

For starters, my wife opted for Bantry Bay mussels in white wine, garlic and coriander sauce, for £5.50, while I went for salad of buffalo mozzarella, plum tomato and basil pesto for £4.75.

My wife's choice was inspired - not a large number of mussels but a lip-smackingly tasty sauce, served with crusty bread containing walnuts. I know the sauce was good because I nicked some after finding my starter, while attractively displayed on the plate, a little bland in flavour. Although you could ask, what did I expect from mozzarella - even a "buffalo" version?

For the main course, I dithered before eventually going for game stew and herb dumpling, served with crusty home-made bread for £10.25, while my wife asked for oven-roasted chicken supreme, stuffed with spinach and Wensleydale cheese, and served with creamy leak sauce, vegetables of the day and sauted potatoes, all for £9.50.

I accompanied my meal with a pint of real ale for £2.20, while my wife had a glass of white wine for £3.40.

I asked whether chips might be served to accompany my stew, but was assured by the waitress I wouldn't be able to manage them - "not after the dumplings." She was right: they and the stew were very filling. The dumplings were also baked to a crispy crust on the surface, with the herbs within providing plenty of flavour. The stew also tasted very good, with lean meat, mushrooms and assorted other vegetables in a rich and thick gravy.

In a reverse of our starter experience, it was the chicken supreme sauce which left the taste buds a little unsatisfied. But my wife said the chicken was good, and she raved about the runner beans, cooked to perfection.

I was full by now, but could still find space for a "crme brule of the moment". I asked what the moment was today, and was told it meant it contained Baileys Irish cream, for which I've always had a soft spot. This pudding cost £4.25, and the total bill came to £41.45, including drinks, which I thought reasonable for a good evening out.

While waiting for the bill to arrive, we had a chat with the friendly staff about the refurbishment. They said the pub had been in a really bad state before work started, with mould and dust everywhere, and the place had to be to be completely gutted.

They have done a good job, with the Chequers boasting a pleasant and cosy atmosphere. They are also clearly trying to ensure they achieve the highest customer satisfaction, as we were handed a questionnaire before we left asking what we thought of things such as the speed of service and the food.

My overall verdict was that the Chequers is triumphant proof that the village pub does have a future, and the punters will come out to them - provided landlords are prepared to invest enough in them, and provide good quality food, drink and service.

The Chequers Inn, Bilton in Ainsty. 01423 359637.

Mike visited the Chequers on Saturday, November 25.

factfile

Food: mostly good

Service: swift, friendly

Value: reasonable

Ambience: cosy

Disabled access: YES

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