Sandsend

11:21am Saturday 29th March 2008

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Sandsend was hardly springlike so we didn't hang around on the sands, but we did stop to buy tide tables from the Sandsend Stores. The climb up Lythe Bank generated body heat and expanding views behind to Whitby's pier and skeletal abbey.

Just before the village of Lythe and near its church, we left the pavement and reached a wide track, mostly grassy, thorn hedged, a purposeful route, a feeling reinforced by the crossing of Over Dale, where there is a length paved with ancient sandstone trod. This dip into a small valley is one of the few places you lose a sea view.

We emerged at Overdale Farm where the cows were gathered at a gate watching the goings-on in the farmyard, from where there emanated a hot smell and the sound of a power tool. One could sympathise with the concern of the herd, some of which were Belgian Blues, or so the farmer informed us. One of their company was clamped in a steel frame and angled at 45 degrees, having her hooves trimmed. Cow chiropody is by angle grinder.

Next up was the hamlet of Goldsborough, where the Fox and Hounds had a notice reading "everything is fab" but that they were fully booked for lunch. Have heard reports that this is justified.

A muddy patch - this is generally a clean boot walk - and a pasture brought us to the site of a Roman Signal Station. On a day like today, the Romans would probably have been huddled around a brazier, yearning for the Latin heat, cursing their emperor and caring little for the mischief of hairy natives or the threats from across the water. Because it was windy, so windy.

Heads down, we dropped into Kettleness, a place bleak on the best of days, leavened a bit by the sight of pretty Runswick Bay.

Now it was the coastal Cleveland Way all the way back, miles with the wind behind. Luckily it was slanting in from the sea, so banishing the fear that one might be blown off the cliffs - but it was strong enough to push one into a run sometimes and engender sympathy for the bent thorn bushes.

The bonus was the exhilaration, the sea scoured white between the breakers, and the light breaking biblically between the clouds, fitting for Good Friday.

Closing in on Sandsend, there were remnants of historical business, a cinder track bed, a blanked-off tunnel entrance, lunar shale, excavations that are now ponds, and a red beck.

For the last half mile, the sea was close, the sound and fury of the waves was amplified, bursting house high on Sandsend's sea wall. At the car park, 4x4 heroes photographed the drama and a policewoman circled with a serious expression, presumably concerned not to lose anyone to the deep on her shift.

Directions

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

1. From Hart Inn, left to road. Up Lythe Bank, pavement bar 20 yards.

2. Track on right after church (sign), 100 yards, fieldgate on bend (waymark) and by hedge, fieldgate to hedged track (waymark), stile/fieldgate into wood (waymark), over stream, uphill.

3. Snickelgate out of wood (waymark), a few stone steps then cross field, gate to farmyard to left of house, through yard, track out.

4. Left-hand bend on track (fingerpost). Right to road, through Goldsborough.

5. Track on right with fieldgate (sign) into farmyard, skirt to right of barn ahead, stile/fieldgate out, 150 yards, fieldgate and 20 yards then 10 o'clock across field (fingerpost).

6. Stile near wooden shelter and info plaque, diagonally across two fields, two stiles, right to road to Kettleness.

7. Track on right (fingerpost Sandsend three miles). Fieldgate and two stiles.

8. Fieldgate to path on left of wall (waymark). Steep steps into ravine, old railwayline back to Sandsend.

fact file

Distance: Seven miles.
General location: Coast.
Start: Sandsend.
Right of way: Public.
Map: Drawn from OS Explorer OL27 North York Moors eastern area.
Dogs: Legal.
Date walked: March 2008.
Road route: Via Whitby.
Car parking: Roadside in Sandsend or pay and display car park.
Lavatories: Sandsend.
Refreshments: Sandsend or Goldsborough.
Tourist and public transport information: Whitby TIC 01723 383636. Tide tables www.portofwhitby.co.uk
Terrain: Cliff top and hinterland.
Points of interest: Whitby Goth Weekend April, 25 to 26
Difficulty: Moderate.

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.

Map of the walk>>