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Harlequins

3:40pm Saturday 1st March 2008

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WHY are we visiting this café in King's Square again? For two reasons. It is one of our favourite snack spots, where we often take our family or meet friends.

Secondly, this survey marks another milestone in our snacking career. This is our 500th report in The Press.

Harlequins has one unfortunate feature. It is upstairs and there is no lift. That apart, the climb is rewarded by a warm welcome from one half of the wife-and-husband team who now run the venue. In addition to the daily specials board, printed menus are brought to the table when you arrive.

While we pondered our food selection, Ann ordered a hot chocolate which proved to be anything but hot. She received a full apology from the owner and another drink. I had no problems with a pot of tea (£1.50) and Rombout's café biscuit.

Earlier in the day, we might have tried toasted fruit loaf (£1.50) or even toasted cheese and herb bread. Cakes start at £2.75.

Sandwiches and baguettes are priced from £3.85 to £5.55 for the Harlequin club variety.

In summer, we have enjoyed cottage cheese salad with fruit and nuts (£5.95), but our visit coincided with a bitterly cold day with rime and fog so something hot was called for.

Winter vegetable soup (£3.65) would suit me. It was thick, hot and full of flavour. An unusual twist was being offered a choice of bread; malted, cheese and herb or plain. Fresh butter came in its own dish.

Ann's choice was a jacket potato. She was pleased with her selection of sliced chicken in a coronation sauce, although defeated by the portion size.

I continued with a hot brie and bacon sandwich in bread (£4.15). This lived up to its claim of being hot.

We considered sharing a desert at £3.50 which included the intriguing caramel honeycomb ice cream sundae, but felt that was for a warmer day.

So it was half each of the Harlequin scone with Botton Village organic raspberry jam and clotted cream (£3.45). This was excellent despite the cream coming from Devon and not being locally sourced. As for the jam, it was as good as any homemade we have tasted.

The glass-topped tables were effectively cleared when they were vacated. This enhanced the welcome for the steady flow of customers who found their way up stairs.

Toilets are a couple of steps down. Although functional, a coat of paint would not go amiss and a plug for the basin in the gents would help.

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