The liquid bunch (From York Press)

The liquid bunch

10:24am Saturday 3rd October 2009 in

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DEMIJOHN is the sort of shop that fuels curiosity. Lining the walls on wooden shelves are large glass bottles, filled with coloured fluids, like some apothecary of yesteryear.

But Demijohn is anything but old fashioned. This is a very modern phenomenon – a first for York and England. Welcome to the liquid deli.

Yes, you read that correctly. Demijohn is a delicatessen selling a range of quality liquid products, from liqueurs and whiskeys to vinegars and olive oils.

Many of the goods are produced in the UK and are sold straight off the shelf; the liquids decanted into bottles ranging from 200ml up to one litre.

Customers are encouraged to try before they buy – meaning you can leave the shop slightly tipsy, and more than likely laden with a bottle or two.

“We are a market place for small producers,” said Hollie Reid, manager of the shop on Museum Street, who has newly moved down from Edinburgh with colleague Amelia Pace. The women ran Demijohn in the Scottish capital. There is one other shop in Glasgow – and now a third, in York.

The business was set up by Angus Ferguson, a former Black Watch officer. While studying in Italy, Angus learned of the habit of guests bringing bottles of olive oil rather than wine to parties. But it was at a dinner party in Scotland when he tasted some Bramble Scotch Whiskey Liqueur that the idea of Demijohn was born.

“Visiting Demijohn is like a journey of discovery into a foodie heaven,” said Angus. “By tasting the products, customers know what they are buying and are enlightened further by learning more about how to consume them.”

Hollie and Amelia are full of enthusiastic ideas on how to give food the Demijohn treatment. Take the aged balsamic vinegar, not for the financially fainthearted at £54 for the 12-year-old bottle and £75 for the 25-year-old one.

“Delicious on fish and chips,” said Hollie. “Although I did lick it all off my chips first.”

Another favourite is the Elderflower vinegar. “Great in salads, stir fries or even in a drink mixed with soda water,” said Hollie.

I try it in a more traditional mix, with a spoonful of Kabbadates Extra Virgin Oil, made with hand-picked olives from Corfu, that are pressed on the same day. The taste is extraordinary; the elderflower flavour bursts through in all its floral fruitiness, encapsulating the essence of summer.

Another great combination was El Campico, a light extra virgin olive oil from Spain, with apple vinegar, which made a tart, yet sweet, dressing, perfect for salad.

The Bramble vinegar was thick and sweet, and would make a good alternative to balsamic. Hollie has some other suggestions, too: add a splash to hot water. “Great for a sore throat,” she said.

These fruit vinegars are also great added to stews and gravies, adding a sweetness and depth, said Hollie.

Liquids are priced per 100ml – and you pay for the bottle too (which can be returned for refills). As a guide, a 200ml bottle of liqueur costs around £10; while a set of oil and vinegar would set you back £15.

The clear bottles are label free; instead, staff write the contents in white ink – and can add a personal message if the liquid is a gift.

Shoppers, added Hollie, were thoroughly enjoying the novelty of the liquid deli. “There is a real sense of wonder. It’s like an adult sweetshop. If they are interested in something they get to try it.”

In credit crunch Britain, it is perhaps surprising to learn that Demijohn is doing so well. Owner Angus said: “From our humble beginnings with one small shop in Edinburgh five years ago, we are now expanding to our third shop with sales growing at a steady 20 per cent year on year and online sales rocketing.”

Hollie added: “The recession hasn’t hit us at all. I think it helps that people can choose their own size of bottle and control what they spend. Also, people are really into good food, buying locally and cutting down on food miles. They are also going to dinner parties more and not going to restaurants so much. I also think people like Demijohn because it is so unusual.”

• Demijohn, 11 Museum Street, York. demijohn.co.uk