WHAT does a culinary whiz want for Christmas? “I love random stuff, but anything edible or drinkable is even better,” says Andrew Pern with a hearty laugh.

Christmas is one of the Michelin-lauded chef’s favourite times of year. “I love it. I am just a big kid and I love getting presents.”

This Christmas, he will most likely be spending the day in the kitchens at his flagship Michelin-starred restaurant, The Star Inn at Harome, near Helmsley. His family will join him later for dinner. “I just hope there is something left,” he jokes.

For the next few weeks, fans of his culinary flair will be tucking into festive menus at his portfolio of North Yorkshire eateries which include the Star Inn the Harbour, which opened in Whitby this summer, The Star Inn the City, on the riverside in York, and Mr P’s Curious Tavern, in York’s historic Petergate , which has just secured an entry in the Good Food Guide as well as a Michelin Plate award for good cooking.

Arguably it is the latter which lends itself most to the flavour of all things festive. Located in one of the city’s oldest buildings, it is a dark, creaky, atmospheric sort of place which comes, so local folklore swears, with its own ghost. Passers-by can peer through the glass panelled windows at the curiosities inside, just as they would have done in years gone by. There is a Dickensian magic in evidence – which Pern exploits to full effect.

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Head there today and you will see suckling pig on the rotisserie, and giant rounds of melting Alpine cheese oozing away, just waiting to be added to a warming, winter dish. That could be a filling plate of raclette, with salt-baked spuds and ham scraps, or on top of a brioche with rhubarb chutney, or with truffled cauliflower.

“It all looks and smells amazing,” enthuses Pern. “It is culinary theatre.”

The suckling pig is the star of one of the festive sharing platters. It shares the bill alongside “forgotten fruits” of quince, prunes and figs, a chestnut stuffing and Scrumpy gravy.

“It’s a lovely feeling of togetherness to come in and share,” says Pern.

Other festive platters are equally over-the-top and include a “celebration of lose bird and game”, featuring pheasant, partridge, goose and turkey. There is a fish and seafood platter too, if surf more than turf is on your Santa eating-out wishlist.

Mr P’s was envisaged as a place to pop in for a drink and snack or small plate – a kind of Yorkshire tapas bar – and there are some more restrained offerings too, ideal if you want a small, indulgent treat while out Christmas shopping, says Pern.

“The snack menu has Croque m’lad and m’lass, as well as haute dog – a posh hot dog – made from a smoked Strasbourg sausage and Brussels sprout coleslaw, served in a brioche bun.”

Festive drinks will include spiced cider and mulled wine, in addition to the usual suspects which include an extensive gin menu.

For dessert, that very English favourite, Eton mess, has had a seasonal makeover. The Festive Eton Mess comes with clementine, cranberries and mincemeat.

Another pud to try would be the pineapple cake, which soaks up a lovely cinnamon-sugar syrup from rotisserie-roasted pineapple. “The cake sits underneath and catches all the falling juices,” explains Pern.

The venue can be booked for parties and can accommodate festive groups.

Pern prides himself on giving diners a different experience at each of his restaurants. At Mr P’s, the location, the atmosphere and the menus make it especially attractive at Christmas time, says Pern.

“We want to give people a different experience. We won’t replicate what we do in one place. If you are out shopping for Christmas, then Mr P’s has that Christmas feel. It really lends itself to it.”

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Recipe from Mr P's

Christmas Eton Mess

(Serves 8)

A British summer classic with a Christmas twist

Ingredients

100g dried cranberries

100ml brandy

454g jar good quality mincemeat

250ml double cream

2 tbsp stem ginger, chopped

4 clementines, zested

8 meringues, broken into big pieces

Soak the cranberries in the brandy for ten minutes.

Warm the mincemeat in a saucepan to melt any lumps of butter or lard there might be in it, add the soaked cranberries and leave to cool.

Whip the cream until almost stiff, then fold in the chopped ginger and clementine zest.

Spoon a blob of mincemeat into the bottom of eight small tumblers.

Put a spoonful of the ginger cream on top, then sprinkle over a few pieces of meringue.

Keep adding more layers like this until all the glasses are full.

Serve with a teaspoon and a glass of port.