MAXINE GORDON visits one of York's oldest restaurants and finds that it is still one of the best in town

FOR the past 27 years Michael and Lucy Hjort have been running Melton's restaurant, serving classic dishes with a French flair using the best of Yorkshire produce.

It's been a recipe for success that hasn't needed much tampering.

Back in 1990, Scarcroft Road in South Bank was rather off the beaten track. Today, it is a mere stone's throw from Bishy Road, the city's trendy beating heart, packed with cafes, shops, delis and where flat whites have replaced flat caps.

The success of the area cannot have harmed Melton's – but encouragingly, neither has it distracted it from its mission: to prepare serious plates of food.

Fans of the restaurant will know that it has a very reasonable lunch and early-bird dining offer, presenting what must be one of the best eating-out deals in town, with one third off the full menu price.

For £26 for two courses or £30 for three, diners can choose from the a la carte menu, and the set price includes bottled still water, amuse bouche, home-made bread, filter coffee and petit fours.

For anyone seeking great food at an affordable price, Melton's is a must. You could pay just as much for a mediocre meal at scores of chain restaurants in the city – but why would you?

York Press:

APPETISER: Amuse bouche at Melton's

Early-bird diners can take up their table from 5.30pm to 6.15pm, and be prepared to give it up by 7.45pm. We arrived at 6pm and within ten minutes were savouring a delicious glass of the house white (a crisp, light Les Petit Roucas at £19 a bottle), and some amuse bouche. This palate-awakening appetiser included red pepper houmous with pastry straws; a silver spoon of creamy goats cheese, fruity jam and dried olives, and a shot glass of gazpacho, which was the standout of the three being sharp and sweet in equal measure.

Service was swift, attentive and informative. The setting is pleasant too; it is formal without being fussy, but makes you feel you have come somewhere special.

Reviewing rules dictate that diners choose different dishes on the menu. Mostly that works out fine, but Mum and I both wanted the scallops starter and no-one was prepared to budge. Luckily we made a great choice, the dish was faultless.

York Press:

FAULTLESS: Scallop starter

The scallops came seared and served atop an assembly of pomegranate, raisin, tiny capers and slithers of pickled onion. There was a quenelle of curried cauliflower puree, which was more subtle than it sounds, merely lending a creamy lift. The scallops were perfectly cooked, nicely coloured on the outside, meaty and succulent inside. The rest of the dish was a perfect blend of fruity, sharp and salty and once I'd eaten the scallops, I scooped up the remains with the soft-as-a-sponge bread.

Mum and I both love fish, so luckily there were two options - hake and trout - from the seven dishes in the mains selection. Other choices included guinea fowl with tarragon gnocchi; rare breed beef with watercress, and lamb with smoked aubergine. Vegetarians were offered yeasted cauliflower with golden sultanas and pine nuts, with a menu note that other dishes could be prepared on request.

Mum dived in first, plumping for the sea trout with almond, and broccoli with chilli and lime. She asked for a side of new potatoes (also complimentary). The trout tasted as good as it looked, she reported. I pinched a slither and it was lovely: the fish was sweet in flavour and tender in texture.

My fillet of hake with a baked crust of Beaufort cheese was a more subtle affair, but a winner too. Again, the fish was cooked to perfection, forking into meaty segments just calling to be lathered in the sauteed leeks and slices of melt-in-the-mouth potato beneath.

York Press:

"LIKE EATING BUBBLES": Raspberry souffle

For dessert, Mum chose a raspberry souffle and described it as "eating bubbles". I pinched a couple of spoonfuls and wondered at how something so light and airy could pack so much flavour.

Feeling quite full, the waitress suggested I try the cheesecake. Cheesecake is normally very filling, but this wasn't on account of its size: a mere finger of a slice with a dessert spoon of ice-cream. It was dense and fudgy in the way good baked cheesecakes are with a sweet red berry jelly on top and a slight redcurrant ripple through the ice-cream. It was another subtle dish, but I was expecting a bit more punch from the flavours.

We had coffee to finish, served with a plate of petit fours: mini shortbreads, squares of nougat and candied hazelnuts.

It was time to vacate our table ahead of the evening dinner session. We hadn't felt rushed, nor treated to an inferior dining experience. Far from it. We'd had an excellent dinner – and at a very fair price.

Melton's

7 Scarcroft Road, York

T: 01904 634341

W: meltonsrestaurant.co.uk

Food: Very good 4.5/5

Service: Spot on 5/5

Ambience: Refined 4/5

Value: Excellent 5/5