JULIAN COLE follows the tourist trail to Bowness for one night only and finds plenty to enjoy indoors and out.

YOU could hardly wish for a better location. Nestled gently in the valley above Bowness, the Ryebeck has views across Lake Windermere to the far slopes, where enviable houses stud the greenery.

In summer you could sit outside and watch the sun slip behind the hills. On our mid-April visit the evening was beautiful but not warm enough for that. So we sank into armchairs by the window, waited for our drinks and the menu, and watched the pinking of the sky.

A perfect start to an evening that wasn’t without its troubles, but that view was the best sort of compensation.

The day started with a damp drive along one of the loveliest routes in the north, twisting and turning along Wensleydale to Sedbergh. It’s a slow, quiet trek, an old-fashioned journey harking back to the days before motorways.

Sedbergh was lovely but cold and damp. Restored by caffeine and a quick visit to the fine church, we carried on to Kendal and then Bowness. We had a cowards’ picnic in the car. Then the sun emerged, beckoning us outside.

This part of the Lake District is a real tourist honeypot. Often in the past, we have avoided places so sticky with visitors, but this time we joined the throng for a boat trip. This is a classic Lakes activity, but nonetheless enjoyable for that.

We took a walkers’ cruise. This sailed out of Bowness on a large ferry for the 40-minute voyage to Ambleside, with clear views across to the fells. Back on dry land, instead of visiting the centre of Ambleside we sat by the lake, watching the people and the boating, including a party of young men being dunked from canoes.

A smaller wooden boat then took us across Windermere to Wray Castle, a National Trust property. There was no time for a visit as we had a four-mile walk along the edge of Windermere, weaving in and out of the woods with the sun glinting on the lake.

At Ferry House, we waited for the 5pm ferry, the last return trip of the day (although a car ferry does provide backup, so no worries about a long swim).

The Ryebeck is a short drive away, comfortably nestled in the trees, with Windermere as a backdrop. Inside, the hotel is comfortable and pleasant, and our room had two large windows, one facing the lake.

There is a large new dining room in a conservatory extension, and that’s where we were led after our scenery-watching spell, with nibbles, wine and a beetroot and vodka shot (very good, too). The hotel has a new chef, Eddie Kilty, and the menu is certainly imaginative.

But it there did appear to be problems in the kitchen on the night, as all around us people had been waiting a long time for courses to arrive. A degree of good-humoured grumbling wondered if the pudding would be ready in time for breakfast.

The waiting staff offered apologies, and no one became cross, but something clearly wasn’t quite right. As for the food, my veggie wife had for a starter Thorby Moor goats cheese, with heritage beetroot, candied pecans and basil, while I went for rabbit and langoustine. Both were delicious.

The mains were a little slow in coming. The veggie main was truffle and parmesan gnocchi with black olive and purple sprouting broccoli; the verdict was on the okay side.

My main of Holker Hall venison loin with broccoli, white pudding and wild garlic was rich, savoury and delightful – but the portions were so small it was gone in a flash.

For sweets we both had poached rhubarb with cardamom cream and ginger beer sorbet, a pretty plateful of miniature sweets, each one a tiny mouthful of surprises.

After a full and relaxing breakfast, we left the Ryebeck, with one last look at that view, and drove a mile or so to Blackwell, the Arts & Craft House.

This must be one of the loveliest houses to visit anywhere. It was built for the Manchester brewer Sir Edward Holt as a family retreat, as designed by the architect Mackay Hugh Baille Scott.

Now beautifully restored, this is a place of charm and beauty. There is much that is beautiful about this house, but little beats the long hallway.

As you step into this, you are in the honeyed warmth of half-light, hemmed in by the lovely oak-panelled walls. This passageway tapers into the distance, opening on to something bright. As you walk along, you step into a white-panelled lounge, shockingly bright almost, with views over Windermere.

All lovers of everything Arts & Craft, including the one who travelled there with me, are likely to be spellbound.