JULIAN COLE fails to keep a clear head as he heads to a whisky tasting in York

A WHISKY tasting is a disorientating sort of pleasure. There you are early in the evening, locked in the shop and being handed assorted liquids of golden hue to try.

For me whisky is a weekly pleasure, late on a Friday night, slightly over-filled glass in hand, Graham Norton or whatever on the television. But this was early on a Thursday, so a displacement had taken place. One day and a few hours too soon, but never mind.

The location was the Whisky Shop in Coppergate, and the honeyed hard stuff was all drawn from The Glenlivet range, as introduced by Phil Huckle. Phil has one of those job titles that sounds rather grand and a little enviable. He is the UK brand ambassador for Chivas Regal and The Glenlivet. Enthusiast and raconteur, Phil led us through the five whiskies, offering a sweep through history and then a slosh through the glass.

Of the many interesting historical facts that he offered up, a telling one is that ageing whisky in oak came about by accident. Oak barrels were used to store and transport in the days when distilling whisky was illegal. Only later was it realised that the spirit benefited from its time hidden in wood.

Also, all the whiskies in this famous range are called The Glenlivet after a judge ruled in a dispute among distillers; that explains the capital letter on the definitive article for whiskies from this distillery.

The Glenlivet 12 Year Old has long been a popular entry point for malt whisky. Now it is being replaced by the Founder’s Reserve, which is light, creamy – especially with a dash of water – and enjoyably zesty. At around £36 for the bottle, this pleasant whisky should find new friends without too much trouble.

It wasn’t the star of the evening, though. Different imbibers had their favourites, but a popular choice came bang in the middle. The five whiskies ranged in price, strength and maturity up to The Glenlivet Archive 21 Year Old. The pick for me was The Glenlivet Nadurra Oloroso Sherry Cask, a darkly sweet treat given real oomph from time in sherry barrels – a practice that is becoming less common, and here lends the whisky all sorts of dried-fruit flavours, raisins and apricots with a touch of liquorice.

This costs around £60 – not cheap, but truly lovely.

The other three liquids consumed were The Glenlivet French Oak Reserve 15 Year Old, The Glenlivet 18 Year Old and the mighty The Glenlivet Archive 21 Year Old.

But if you’re looking for a treat or have a birthday to hand, that Nadurra would be a sound choice (a hint which should be recalled in October, should friends or family be reading).

So that was that, an enjoyable time, with only a mild headache the following morning.

One final teasing fact: which country drinks the most malt whisky? I went for Russia, which was wrong. It is in fact the French.