10:54am Saturday 21st September 2013
Here we begin a new monthly series of recipes from chef Andrew Pern, whose new restaurant in York opens in November.
GREETINGS! As these are my first recipes for The Press, I shall introduce myself.
I was born and bred near Whitby in the Esk Valley, studied at Scarborough Catering College, then a bit in France, and for the past 17 years I have been the chef/owner/(entertainments manager) of the award-winning Star Inn at Harome, an historic thatched pub near Helmsley on the edge of the North York Moors, where I have been busy, among other things, cooking, writing books and being Dad to Daisy, Tilly, Louis, Olive and, the latest addition, Freddie.
Obviously that gives me plenty of spare time, so in a few weeks time we open a new restaurant, The Star Inn The City, in the old Lendal Engine House, next to Museum Gardens, looking on to Lendal Bridge and bringing our style of Yorkshire hospitality to town.
We have been working hard on menus which celebrate Yorkshire produce while the refurbishment and extension of the building has been taking shape. The place will be built for comfort (a bit like me), somewhere to relax over a meal or a drink, or for a chat.
My first two recipes will feature on our first Star Inn The City menus is some form. Why not give them a try at home and then come along to taste them at the restaurant? Just make sure they are generously garnished with your own version of home-cured hospitality.
Hay-baked ‘Loose Birds Chicken with Swaledale-baked Dauphinoise, Smoked Saddleback Bacon Rolls, Buttered Spinach
A little bit of theatre for this local bird, which is great as a centrepiece, especially when brought to the table, surrounded by hay, garnished with the bacon rolls, and served with a pot of potatoes and spinach on the side – fantastic for a special meal with family or friends!
One large oven ready free range chicken
4 slices smoked bacon
A pinch of nutmeg
For the Dauphinoise
Six baking potatoes
300ml whipping cream
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 sprig of thyme
25g butter, melted
100g Swaledale cheese
Preheat the oven to 180°C/ gas mark 4. Season the whole chicken and wrap in the hay. Place in a roasting tray and put in the oven for approximately 1 hour 15 minutes.
Meanwhile prepare the Dauphinoise potatoes. Peel the potatoes and slice thinly. Bring the cream to the boil and add the thyme and garlic.
Layer the potatoes in an ovenproof dish, adding seasoning as you go. Pour over the cream and grate the cheese on top. Bake for 45 minutes. Either serve in the cooking dish or cut out ‘rounds’ with a pastry cutter. Keep warm.
For the bacon rolls, cut each bacon rasher into three, roll up and hold in place with a cocktail stick. Bake for ten minutes in the same oven.
Wilt the spinach in a frying pan with the butter and a little seasoning. Add the nutmeg.
Once the chicken is cooked, take to the table in the hay. Carve, serving with the bacon rolls, a stack of potatoes and the spinach on the side.
Venison Cottage Pie, Juniper-creamed Savoy Cabbage, York Ham Lardons, Hand-picked Yellow Chanterelles, Garden Thyme Juices
Everyone can relate to cottage pie, but not everyone has tried venison, which is unfortunate as it is a great ‘local product’ with lots to recommend it.
This dish gives newcomers to venison a chance to try something different but with an element of confidence, and just as importantly shows how versatile game can be.
In Harome, we serve this dish slightly differently with the main element being pan-roast haunch venison steaks with little venison cottage pies, adding another dimension, as shown in the photograph, but even without this it makes good autumn comfort food eating.
For the cottage pie:
1 medium white onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely grated
A little rapeseed oil
350g minced venison
125ml red wine
4 juniper berries, ground
400ml game stock
2 medium carrots, cut into 1/2cm dice
A little cornflour
A splash of gravy browning
200g mashed potato with a little chopped parsley mixed in, warmed
A little butter
A little Cheddar cheese, grated (to sprinkle over the top)
For the juniper-creamed Savoy cabbage:
1/2 medium Savoy cabbage, thinly sliced
100ml whipping cream
40g Cheddar cheese, grated
3 juniper berries, ground
Preheat the oven to 190°C/Gas Mark 5.
First prepare the cottage pie ingredients, by sweating the onions and garlic in a little oil, without colouring. Add the minced venison to the onions and garlic, and brown, then add the red wine, ground juniper berries and the stock.
Season and cook on a medium heat for approximately 20 minutes. Add the diced carrot and cook for a further ten minutes. Add a splash of gravy browning and thicken with a little cornflour, as required.
For the cabbage, first reduce the cream by half, then add the cabbage, cheese, juniper and seasoning to taste, and cook for approximately two minutes, until tender.
To serve, spoon the cooked venison mince into a small pan or pot and pipe warm mashed parsley potato over the top. Brush with butter and sprinkle over a little cheese, if you wish. Place under a hot grill for approximately 4 to 5 minutes, until brown.
Put the pot onto a warm plate with the creamed cabbage next to it, or served separately as a side dish.
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